Min Zhou (SK 2011), founder of Emzi: luxury shoes for women with small feet

Min Zhou, a graduate of the SKEMA Class of 2011, has created a shoe brand that defies the conventions of fashion. In this interview, Min talks to us about her concept and her journey since SKEMA.

Can you tell us what you’ve been up to since graduating from SKEMA?

After finishing my MSc Luxury & Fashion Management, I worked in fashion. That gave me a chance to discover the industry that has fascinated me from a very young age: ready-to-wear fashion, leather accessories and shoes. As a commercial assistant, then retail administrator, management controller and, finally, a business analyst, I was able to learn how brands manage their operations. I worked on overall brand performance, but also directly on products. All of these experiences gave me a comprehensive picture of the industry. I then launched my shoe brand with my own vision, with values that mean something to me and my customers.

How did the Emzi brand come about?

It all started with a desire to share, share beautiful products, share human values, share a vision of fashion.

“If I didn’t have small feet (size 34 in Europe, 2 in the UK), the brand would most likely never have existed.”

Since arriving in France, it has always been complicated for me to find the perfect shoes. Small feet are “forgotten” by the major fashion labels. Standard shoe sizes for women only start at 36 (or 35 for some brands). Women with a smaller shoe size than 36 don’t have any choice. They have to buy children’s shoes or put two insoles in their winter shoes.

“As a working woman who loves fashion, I am not satisfied with children’s shoes, in either my personal or my professional life.”

So after 15 months of preparations, the brand went live online in late 2017: www.mz-shoes.com.

Where does the name Emzi come from?

M and Z are the initials of my maiden name. I wanted to add a modern touch with a stronger attitude by adding “ZI” on the end, with the aim of creating a brand and style that are not afraid to break with conventions. But at the same time, creating a brand that doesn’t forget its sources of inspiration, its origins, the work of its craftspeople and the human element.

What is its concept?

Emzi is a shoe brand that defies the conventions of fashion.

With its concept:
It’s a people-centric brand focused not only on those who make the shoes, but also on the women who wear them.

With its sourcing and distribution:
Our shoes are limited editions produced in Italy and Spain and sold directly through our online store.

With its prices:
We sell high-end handcrafted shoes at an affordable price year round. And out of respect for the work of our craftspeople, we don’t do sales.

With its signature promise:
From day one, all of our shoes have been designed to bring women with small feet high-end, comfortable shoes starting at a size 33.

How did you get the idea to start this brand?

I have small feet and could never find what I wanted when shopping for shoes. I had to go into every shop and try on a lot of pairs to find one that fit. For me, shopping stopped being a pleasant experience. I needed elegant, durable shoes that were easy to wear for all occasions. That’s how the idea germinated. 

Where is the brand at right now? What plans and ideas do you have to develop it?

Today, Emzi is primarily sold online in our e-shop, on La Redoute, at BHV, and through a partner boutique in Paris.

Since we are a DNVB (Digital Native Vertical Brand), we are going to continue to focus on selling online, but we also plan to open up some retail outlets in the future.

In parallel, online still, we would like to develop the service element, to offer a different, more immersive customer experience.

How useful has your SKEMA education been in helping you set up and launch your brand?

My MSc in Luxury & Fashion Management degree gave me the knowledge I needed to work in this industry and gain initial work experience in the luxury sector.

Is there a style or brand from which you draw inspiration?

I really love brands that possess iconic know-how and offer elegant, classic styles ─ like Chanel’s tweeds, for example, or Hermès’ leather craftsmanship and Chloé’s lightness.

Can you tell us a little about your collection?

In the “Back to the Source” collection, I wanted to show what the brand’s sources of inspiration have been from the start. It’s a mix of my past spent in completely different cities and cultures:

• The natural tranquility of the French Riviera
• The lightness of Paris
• The freedom and nonconformism of London
• But also the authenticity and sensibility of China

Which is your favourite design?

I have two: the Liliane Gold golden sandals and the white woven mules, Fira White. They reflect all the skill of our Tuscan shoemaking workshop: soft and durable Italian leathers, quality handweaving, and all-day comfort despite a 7.5 cm heel in the case of the Liliane Gold.

Is there a message/a particular desire behind the creation of Emzi?

I wanted to create a shoe brand that had meaning (for me) in the fashion industry, with a different vision that is reflected in our commitments:

• To favour the human touch
• To value fine craftsmanship
• To make shoes designed to last
• To sell at the right price

What is your signature style?

The square heel.

What are your ambitions for the future?

To be recognised as a high-end brand of handcrafted, comfortable shoes. And to become the leading brand for small shoe sizes in France and abroad.

What advice would you give a student wanting to start a luxury brand?

Be daring, love your work, be sensible, be prepared for a very challenging but exciting journey.

Contact: Min Zhou, founder of the Emzi brand